South India

This report will take me through South India...

OOTY

Ooty is a dinky Indian tourist town that was once a resort for British expatriates. It is high up (almost 7,000 feet) so it is very cool, there is a lake, and there are tea plantations. The town doesn't really have much in the way of sanitary food or conveniences, however, so it quickly becomes a pain in the ass. There is a botanical garden; not a good one; that was the highlight for me.

I thought I scored big when I got a hotel room for $2.50... I inspected the room first, which is something they will always let you do here (so long as it is not an expensive hotel). I learned a few lessons - just because there is a "western" toilet doesn't mean there is water in the tank. And, just because there is a hot water spout doesn't mean there is hot water or any water at all. Light bulbs were missing, I missed this on initial inspection (wouldn't have know if the light bulbs worked anyway, because the town does not turn on electricity until 6:00pm and I was checking in at 3:00) I was able to put up with the "known" inconveniences (after discovering them), and, feeling smug at my super-cheap score, I kept this room. Then I pulled the bedspread down... there was no sheet, and I was staring at a filthy, disgusting mattress. No more sticking it out! I went down the road to a luxury $10 a night place and felt embarrassed because now I have cable TV with BBC news and HBO and I am supposed to be rolling with the punches of budget travel!! I only turned on the TV for 15 minutes; who needs to hear all the same crap news as when I left in January!!!

Dinner that night was funny. I was checking out a restaurant where they had meat on the menu, then I heard this "buk buk buk BAHHHHHH!!!!" and look to the side and there is the chicken coop! I went to another place and had vegetarian that night. Then I thought, that would probably be some of the best chicken I could have!! No hormones in the chickens and fewer pesticides and fertilizers in the grain as compared to America. Not to mention, the chicken would be sliced right there, not processed in some factory, frozen, then thawed! Live and learn?!?!? we will see.

Anyhow, I hightailed it out of Ooty the next day, and met two really cool couples - one from New Zealand and one from Germany, on the train to...

COCHIN

First, let me tell you about this train ride. The Nilgiri express is one of the last remaining steam trains (I already sent the pictures). It was put into service before 1910 and incorporates Swiss engineering to negotiate the steep mountain passes. They are still using the Swiss technology with what seems to be the original (or at least very old) carriages. It sounds like a train should sound with ear-splitting train whistles and with big puffs of ash as the engine chugs along (the ash fills the passenger cars, but it is well worth it). The views from this train were spectacular. Waterfalls, mountains, and super-high, rickety bridges...

COCHIN

This is an atmospheric little town that still serves as a big fishing port. It is scenic and relaxing and we were able to find beer.

ALLEPHUZA

This is the main hub for many small communities that are on small islands and strips of land in the backwaters of South India. The only way to get from town to town is on a ferry, of which there are many! For 1 or 2 rupees (under $0.05) you can go wherever you want. Just hail the boat and jump on as it pulls close to the dock (They often don't come to a full stop, so just jump...) I am totally sick of crap budget hotels at this point, so I splurge on a hotel with a pool, air conditioning, and room service. They had dinner by the pool with live Indian music every night. Yes, this was a little tourist kitschy, but splashing in the pool in the middle of the 95 degree heat was a real pleasure!

KANYAKUMARI

This is the southern most tip of the Indian subcontinent and is considered sacred in the Hindu religion. There were thousands of Indian pilgrims here who come to watch the sunrise at this sacred point once in their lifetime.

This place was initially a nightmare for me - the train arrived at 1:30am, and there were a few rickshaw drivers waiting but they seemed shady and there was no sign of life outside the station. There were all these people sleeping on the floor - not homeless people, but well-dressed entire families! Four kids, mom, dad, grandma, and grandpa snoozing away. Then people would wake up and bathe at the water fountain... So, I decided to join them, not on the floor, but on the bench. I waited until 6:00am when I was sure there would be a hotel open, then I set out for the town. Not an auspicious beginning to my time in this town!

Steve